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Twenty
Covering the Right Wing
10 December 2010: I get started. I'm not completely unfamiliar
working with fabric. I once worked part-time making boat canvas. In
addition when we owned a sailboat I made its entire inventory of sails.
Poly-Fiber fabric looks like Dacron sail cloth but, beyond that, the
similarities end. I'm discovering that my prior experiences are only a
little help.
 Rolling
out the fabric. My sail making experience was handy for this.
   Gluing
the trailing and leading edges. Way too much fabric is left off the
wingtip. I saved it but in the future, I will have to do better measuring.
    11
December 2010: I cut relief cuts around the ribs and false ribs and
continue gluing the leading edge wrapping around the spar. Look
carefully in the first photo and you see where I painted the cut lines
with Poly-Tac to prevent fraying after the cut.
 Gluing
the capstrips: Previously I pre-coated the capstrips with Poly-Tac. By
brushing Poly-Tac thinned one-to-one with MEK I activated the Poly-Tac
beneath the fabric to complete the bond. I've been repeatedly told not to
worry about the irregularities, girts, and folds. All will be made right
with the application of heat. I'm trying to suppress doubt. Of course I'm
now thinking of ways I could have done better. A kit plane is a great
contribution to life-long learning.
  12
December 2010: I begin with wrapping the bottom fabric around the edge of
the root and tip ribs. The clamps were an impulse buy at the local
hardware store. They proved ideal for this application.
  Next
I begin attaching the top fabric. Here I've glued the trailing edge.
 15
December 2010: A problem! By gluing the trailing edge first I caused
the fabric to not fit well over the leading edge. I removed the fabric and
started over. This time I just clamped the fabric to the trailing edge
with clothespins. I then adjusted the clothespins until the fabric fit
smoothly over the leading edge. I attached it to the leading edge with a
narrow glue line and then did the same with the trailing edge. After that
I trimmed, wrapped, and glued both edges to finish the attachment. I
finished my day by gluing the capstrips.
   17
December 2010: I start my day by wrapping the top fabric around the root
and tip capstrips.
Then...
  Magic!:
Heat shrinking. I set the iron to 250
degrees and wash all my sins away. (Well, most of them. If you look
carefully there is a place over the fuel tank where I've wiped an area
with MEK. There was a hardened drop of Poly-Tac that became obvious when
the fabric tightened over it.)
 For
about $60! I purchased this infra-red thermometer from Radio Shack. I
allowed me to continuously monitor the temperature of my iron.
 18
December 2010: Preparing for rib lacing. I first marked the top of the
root rib and then transferred the marks to the bottom by using a level as
a straight edge and a carpenters square to spot each mark.
 I
used masking tape to transfer the marks to the tip rib.
  With
Linda's help! We snapped chalk lines to transfer the marks to all the
ribs
 It's
getting late. I did manage to apply tape to a few of the ribs.
 19
December 2010: Rib Lacing! I spent most of the day applying tape but,
late in the day, I was able to do seven stitches. On rib 2 and 3 only the
very aft can be laced due to the fuel tank taking the space between the
spars. On rib 3 I've left a space for the flaperon bracket. It's probably
not necessary to rib lace in this area but, it was a great place to get
started and develop my technique.
 20
December 2010: Rib lacing complete! Linda helped me. It takes a little
time to get started but, after that, it goes quickly. A careful look will
reveal some places where I skipped a stitch. The structure of the wing
prevented this. I have to think about an alternative.
 21
December 2010: A solution. In the non-propwash area of the wing I'm
allowed a 3 1/2 inch interval between stitches. I've been using 2 1/2
inches because that is the propwash interval and I decided to let that
standard apply for the entire wing. However, if the situation warrants I
can "bracket" an obstruction with a 3 1/2 inch interval.
 Permanently riveting the wingtip mounts.
 22
December 2010: Pink Goop! I continued heat shrinking with the iron set
at 350 degrees and then painted Poly-Brush to the reinforcing tape over
the laced ribs.
 24
December 2010: Poly-Brush. I coated the top of the wing with
Poly-Brush.
 25
December 2010: In spite of it being Christmas, I just had to coat the
bottom of the wing.
   27
December 2010: Doilies! I first mounted a section of Poly-Fiber ultra
light fabric onto a frame and then shrunk it with a 250 degree iron. I
then marked the shape of the doilies on the stretched fabric. After
removing the fabric from the frame I cut the individual pieces with a
pinking shears and glued them in place with Poly-Brush.
 30
December 2010: Tape! After marking their positions with a chalk line I
pre-coated the fabric over the top cap strips and applied 2 inch tape. You
can see that I have a bit of work ahead of me working out the gaps with an
iron.
The Book is Right! I set the small hobby iron to 225 degrees and
smoothed the tapes. Almost all the lumps and bumps disappeared.
  31
December 2010: Taping the false ribs. I first had Linda help me snap a
chalk line marking the end point of each false rib tape and then drew
lines defining the chord-wise position of each tape. After pre-coating
with Poly-Brush I glued them in place. You may notice that I masked the
entire end rib. This is to keep insects, etc... out of the wing when it's
stored in the hangar. A careful look at the first photo shows where I
taped a piece of screen to provide ventilation.
  2-3
January 2011: Taped the bottom capstrips and false ribs. In addition I
marked the location of the leading edge tape and pre-coated with
Poly-Brush.
5 January 2011: Taping the Leading Edge. This took two attempts.
When I removed the first attempt it left a "ghost" image on the fabric.
You'll notice this on some of the photos.
 First
I attached the 6 inch tape to the bottom with a 1 inch glue line that
follows my chalk line.
 I
then smoothed the tape over the top and attached it with another 1 inch
glue line. (Poly-Brush) By smoothing with my hand I just took out the
slack. I made no attempt to stretch out the wrinkles.
 I
gave the Poly-Brush plenty of time to dry. I then spent about an hour
and half smoothing out all the wrinkles with the hobby iron set at 250
degrees. For some reason the photo makes the smoothed area appear rough. I
assure you that it is taught and smooth.
 Done!
I coated the tape with Poly-Brush. You can see places that need more work
with the iron and the ghost of my bungled first attempt.
 6
January 2011: Finished! All the tapes are in place. The only thing
left is to apply the drain grommets.
   16
January 2011: Drain Grommets. The first photo shows the plastic
grommets glued in place and pre-coated with Poly-Brush. The second photo
shows the doilies in place and the third photo shows the holes cut and a
final coat of Poly-Brush.
Milestone! The right wing is now finished except for paint. As soon
as I can I'll move it to the hangar and bring the left wing to the garage
for finishing.
Completing the Left Wing
   17
January 2011: Swapping one for the other. The end fittings of the
"rotisserie" have legs that allow me to set the wing on the bed of the
truck without it touching. The forward part extends a little beyond the
leading edge to allow me to butt up to the wall without damaging the wing.
 Back
to Square One!
18 - 27 January 2011: No photos! I'm spending my kit building time
cleaning the hangar dirt off the left wing and applying a second coat of
varnish on the wood.
 28
January 2011: I glue the false ribs adjacent to the lift strut
brackets in place.
30 January - 2 February 2011: began applying the second coat of
varnish.
  6
February 2011: Installing the Fuel Tank. After carefully making relief
cuts to allow a proper fit and installing fittings I applied a bead of
silicone adhesive on both flanges. A bit of rope, a bowline, a rolling
hitch, and the tank is clamped in place.
 9
February 2011: I grab a quick hour from my teaching schedule. I mask
off the gaps between the tank and the ribs and fill them with epoxy. I
then "tool" the joint with a wood mixing stick. After the epoxy is cured
I'll remove the tape and should be left with a clean joint.
 11
February 2011: Blocking rib 1. I use pieces of dowel to stiffen the
root ribs against the pull of heat-shrunk fabric.
  Fuel
Placard. When I made the placard for the right wing my work was
"acceptable" but not perfect. This time I spotted the screws before I
split the placard into two pieces and experienced better results. I coaxed
an old hand drill out of retirement for this.
  12
February 2011: Rib #2. The first photo shows the rib and trailing edge
section slip-fitted in place. The second photo shows these parts glued and
clamped.
 13
February 2011: Blocking the bottom capstrip. I use a straight edge to
spot the position of the second rib capstrip and block it with pieces of
boxwood.
 16
February 2011: Fitting the false ribs along the bottom of the tank.
The false ribs must have cutouts to accommodate the bottom of the tank. To
spot the cutout I placed a level across the existing false ribs and butted
a false rib against the end of the tank and the level. I then drew the
cutout along the edge of the tank. After a little sanding and shaving I
had a template for all the ribs.
  19
February 2011: I know!! the dovetail saw is rusty. I've been meaning
to clean it up but never got around to it. However rusty it may be, it did
the job of trimming the leading edge. Just as duct tape did the job of
clamping it in place.
 20
February 2011: Pink Tape! It's my way of making sure that I put the
pitot mast in the exact spot indicated in the Builders Manual. I've pretty
much decided on a Dynon EFIS for the instrument panel. Because of that I'm
installing the Dynon AOA pitot tube on a SafeAir mast. A few weeks prior I
took a close look at the Super Sport brought to the Sebring Sport Air Expo
by John McBean and
Paul Leadabrand. I'm not sure if my way is an exact duplicate but I think
I'm close. I start with building a plywood shelf.
 Coping
Saw! After tracing the outline of the mast I drill a couple of holes
and cut it out with a coping saw.
  Spotting
the Holes. I marked hole positions on the flange of the mast and,
after clamping the mast and the shelf together, I drilled the holes
through both; clecoing as I go.
 Nutplates.
I rivet nutplates to the mast. In this way the mast can be secured to
the shelf with screws extending from the bottom of the wing. An inspection
port on the fabric behind the pitot mast will allow complete access to the
Pitot/AOA system.
  Glued
in Place!
  23
February 2011: I screwed up! It is my intention to be able to install
and remove the pitot mast from an inspection plate behind the shelf. My
original hole wouldn't allow that since the mast would have to be
perpendicular to the shelf and there's not enough room in the wing. Today I
enlarged the hole to an oval shape that allows the mast to go through the
hole diagonally.
 25
February 2011: Wing Tip! I begin installing the left wing tip.
   27
February 2011: I trimmed the upper edge of the wing tip. The last
photo shows how the lower edge overlaps the capstrip. By measuring exactly
one inch outward from the inboard edge I'll be able to scribe a line at
the exact location of the lower edge.
 2
March 2011: Trimming is complete!
6-7 March 2011: Mounting screws. I've drilled the holes for the
mounting screws and began installing the nutplates.
 9
March 2011: Nutplates. You can see that I've riveted nutplates to the
top mounting strips. I've yet to do this to the bottom strips which are
held in place with nuts and clecos.
  10
March 2011: Complete! With all the nutplates in place I remounted the
wingtip and trimmed it at the trailing edge. I filled the space with Hysol
epoxy and used a spring clamp to make it conform to the wing.
12 March 2011: Today I painted a cardboard box! Every book and
video about spray painting tells me to practice with my spray equipment
before actually painting something. So, I painted a cardboard box with my
new HVLP sprayer. I may do this a couple of times before painting the
right wing. My intent is to take advantage of days where my schedule and
the weather cooperate and paint the covered items to the point of being
coated with Poly-Spray.
More on Page Six
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