 Good Morning
Everybody
18 December
2000, by Tom Waid
"This is English Harbor Radio bringing
you the Marine Weather and news of events in and around English Harbor,
Antigua. To all the new arrivals, welcome to you all."
Every morning at 09:00 hours the voice
of Jol Byerley rings out over the marine VHF radio with the all-important
weather report, announcements important to mariners, and local gossip. All
presented with good cheer and a distinctly British sense of humor and if
he knew it was your birthday you’d get special mention. I remember the
morning he reported that there will be strong winds up to thirty knots.
"Oh dear… …We’ll have to tie grandmother down."
Jol
Byerley was one of the ones, along with Desmond Nicholson, who were there
at the beginning of the Charter Yacht industry in Antigua and the West
Indies. It was then and is now centered around English Harbor at the
restored historical site know as Nelson’s Dockyard. Today, throughout the
Caribbean, there are quite a few restored historical sites but among the
sites I’ve visited, Nelson’s Dockyard is quite unique for being more a
site of commercial activity than a museum exhibit. The buildings are
beautifully restored and contain, among other things, a sail maker and a
rigging shop. This is fitting to the original purpose, which was to
provide a defendable location for the 18th century British Navy
to maintain its Caribbean Fleet. It’s called Nelson’s Dockyard because
Horatio Nelson, the hero of the battle of Trafalgar, was once the
commander of the Caribbean Fleet. It now serves the yachting community
with a variety of pleasure boats gracing the docks rather than 18th
century warships. This is not by accident. Early attempts to restore the
dockyard failed through lack of funding. In 1950 the then governor of
Antigua noticed a charter yacht alongside the wharf and hit on the idea of
turning the dockyard into a yachting center. The charter industry and
yachting in general could possibly generate the funds to complete the
restoration. Over the years this idea has proven successful and on any day
amongst the guided tours being conducted for tourists, yachtsmen are
scurrying around negotiating for work to be done while charter guests are
being escorted to and from the charter yachts.
When I say charter yacht I’m referring
to a yacht available for hire with a captain and crew. I’m not referring
to bareboat chartering which is without a crew and is today the most
popular form of chartering. From its humble beginnings the crewed charter
boat industry in Antigua has grown to a world-class operation. All from a
bunch of guys who just wanted to have some fun in the tropics. Desmond
Nicholson is known worldwide for "Nicholson Yacht Charters," one of the
more prestigious charter agencies.
During our stay in Antigua the annual
Charter Boat Show got underway featuring gold-plated charter yachts from
around the world. It’s an insider’s show so only charter brokers and
agents were invited aboard. It’s understandable. Both the boats and the
agents are there to conduct business so having tire-kickers on board such
as myself would only be in the way. But that did not stop a number of us
from the cruising yachts wandering the docks and admiring the yachts from
the outside. What most impressed me were the incredibly high standards of
maintenance imposed on the yachts by their professional crews. Not a
scratch, smudge, or fingerprint is allowed to spoil the image of
perfection.
The Charter Boat Show is only one of a
number of annual events hosted at English Harbor. Most, however, are open
to all and are held primarily for the sheer fun of doing it. There is the
Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta where springy sheers, carved trail boards,
and acres of varnish once again hold preeminence. The most famous yearly
event, however, is Antigua Sailing Week. Held every spring it’s a full
week of hard-core yacht racing and even harder-core partying. It
officially began in 1968 but has evolved from a more informal event that
dates back to around 1962. In the latest Antigua Marine Guide Jol Byerley
writes about the early years.
"Most
evenings, we would gather on the balcony of the Officers Quarters for rum
and ginger and a sing song. We were all practically penniless, but a very
contented group of yachtsmen. Then one evening, after a couple of drinks
everybody decided that perhaps ‘a yacht race’ would liven things up a
little. Had to see if our boats were really ready to go off sailing the
following season (or something like that). So the following weekend about
ten yachts (none of which were post World War II) could be seen letting go
dock lines and coaxing windlasses to grind in the chains. The older
skippers watched the proceedings from the Officers Quarters balcony, with
Ian Spencer and Mike Broad (two very senior sailors) who left rum drinking
to the youngsters, stirring their G & T’s clockwise with the second finger
of their left hand. ‘Probably never see ‘em again.’ Would say one.
‘Absolutely’ would say the other. ‘Pity about Jol’s wife though. Pretty
little thing eh’ and their eyes would glaze over and they would both nod
off in the afternoon shade. Meanwhile, the young bloods in their old
gaffers which were all wonderful hunks of teak and oak went off to go
racing."
Antigua
is a truly wonderful island. What is particularly nice is that, while it
is now a bustling place with the growth of Caribbean yachting, the
old-timers are still kicking around to provide a link with the past. Jol
Byerley, along with his wife, now manages "Lord Jim’s Locker" . It’s a
wonderful little bookshop located upstairs at the Antigua Yacht Club
Marina. Anyone can stop by and meet him. He always seems delighted to have
a chat. I was impressed with the photos mounted on the wall of his racing
yacht underway with an all-female crew. For that he gets my nod of
approval.

Fort Barkley
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the Bellatrix"
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